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Belay Device

In the history of climbing, belay devices have undergone a turbulent evolution from mind bogling hip belays to fully automated (rope) locking mechanical devices. This article is dedicated to the ATC belay device which is currently the most common used all around belay and rappel device for rock climbers in the world. It’s simple lightweight design, multi-functionality and maximum brake strength make it a necessity on every climber’s rack.
variety of belay devices Even within the familiy of ATC-type devices, there are different versions with added functionality. However, the basic idea of a mechanical brake device remains the same throughout all models from oldschool “Sticht” plate device to modern ATC. Check out the main ones:

1.Simple ATC Belay device

  • Great for belaying and rappelling
  • Lightweight (no extras)
  • Easy use (“belay rope” and “climber’s rope” can go over either side)
  • 2. Simple ATC Belay Device with teeth

  • great for belaying and rappeling
  • extra grip on rope through teeth
  • usually slightly heavier
  • minimal less wear and tear on rope
  • preferably have “belay rope” go over teethed part
  • 3. ATC Guide Belay Device

  • Great for belaying and rappelling
  • Extra grip on rope through teeth
  • Heavier because of added “guide’s mode” clip
  • Auto-locks when belaying directly off anchor in “guide’s mode”
  • 4. Solo thread ATC belay device:

  • belay only
  • limited use
  • recommended for sport climbing without rappelling
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    What an amazing experience! We took the beginners class, and so happy we did, Fabi was very knowledgeable, breaking instructions down step by step making it easier and fun to learn! After learning all the important safety steps we got to climbing right away, with fabi right there giving us pointers on the best route to take. I left class feeling more confident in my abilities to climb. Fabi has such a chill, friendly, and encouraging way of teaching, it felt like we were learning with a friend. I highly reccomend. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Fabi!
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